(Last Updated On: January 10, 2021)
One thing that gives inexperienced archery hunters and bow shooters a challenge is sighting in the compound bow. It is not especially difficult to sight with a compound bow; it’s more backward of what people are used to when sighting with open sights in a rifle.
As you have several changes that can produce comparable effects, it is also a little more complicated and time-consuming than sighting in a rifle, and if you have a multi-pin view, you have to zero many pins. Follow the steps given below:
Ensure That Your Bow Is Tuned
If you can shoot a decent group with your bow at 30 yards, it does not mean that you get optimal arrow flight and efficiency out of your bow. You’ll want to make sure your bow is tuned to do that. The numerous bow-tuning approaches reflect a lengthy topic that deserves its post. Still, you should have no trouble getting dialed in with a little homework or by visiting your nearest archery pro-shop.
Any calibration would always be ideal in advance of sighting-in, followed by a little fine-tuning and re-sighting until you have pretty stuff dialed in. The method of getting your bow as precise as possible involves many steps, time and some redundancy.
Sight Housing Adjustments
A question of personal interest is what ranges you place your sight pins at and how much you believe you can fire depending on circumstance and competence. Getting 20, 30 and 40-yard pins is a standard three-pin configuration. Most hunters will appear to have 50 and 60-yard pins, and others tend to dial in at 10 yards for their top pin.
We will say that your top pin will be dialed in at 20 yards for this post’s sake. To ensure that your bow is relatively close to the target, you want to start at 10 yards. You risk sailing arrows off goal if you start at 20 yards and the bow is way high or way down. Using a tape measure or rangefinder to measure ten yards and fire a pair of arrows at the middle of your target. When sighting in and shooting, it is best to start with field points because broadheads can always cut the arrows’ vanes or fletching’s and are often much tougher on your target.
To get the party level with the bullseye, observe the shot group’s placement and make abrupt changes to the sight box. As the change takes place on the front sight rather than by moving the peep, this is the opposite of a rifle. Lift the sight box to lower the point of impact if the community is large—reduce the box to increase the point of effect if the group is tiny.
Do not think about making changes left or right at this point unless you assume that when you get to 30 yards, the arrow will be off the mark. Step out to 20 yards and with your top pin, fire another batch of arrows.
This party may not be that far from the 10-yard shot vertically, although it would be appropriate to make a small change to the sight box to put the point of impact level with the bullseye.
Dial In At Thirty Yards
Next, the method of shooting a group and correcting for vertical precision is to step down to 30 yards and repeat. Bear in mind during the whole process that making some little changes to your sight will make the process go easier than having to make significant adjustments.
It would help if you also moved the sight box to the left or right to bring the impact point to the middle of the target. Again, you want the arrow to “chase”.
That is, you want to switch the scope box to the left if the bullets reach the left, so that the impact point will turn right. You can no longer adjust the sight housing after dialing in your 30-yard pin, so make sure it gets as zeroed in as possible.
Setting The Other Pins
You can return to the top pin at 20 yards after getting the sight housing dialed in at 30 yards and fire another group. This time change the pin itself instead of the entire housing when vertical adjustment is needed.
Repeat each person pin’s adjustment phase with whatever ranges you want. It is likely to include the 40-yard pin and then a few more increments of distance after that. Know that if you have it zeroed, you do not want to make any more changes to the visual housing or the 30-yard pin.
Changing To Broadheads
You will have to use fixed blade broadheads if you intend to shoot with your bow and can’t use electric broadheads. If you have not already fixed them, conventional broadheads will likely reveal tuning problems with your bow.
You’ll want to fire an arrow with a field-point followed by a broadhead arrow to see where each one reaches. If the broadhead hits a field point on the right, you’ll want to shift the rest to the left.
Small changes are best, just as for sight adjustments. The broadhead impact point can be pushed closer to the field point by moving the arrow rest. To bring the broadhead towards the field position, change the remainder left and right and then do the same if a vertical adjustment is required.
You can have to circle back to further bow-tuning to achieve stronger groups between the two if you have trouble getting the two into one group. If you intend to hunt with broadheads, make sure you complete this phase and then do some practice shooting on a broadhead-approved target with your hunting bows.
When it comes to sighting in your compound bow, the best tip you can follow is to take your time. You will never forget being vigilant and careful in watching your bow, whether hunting or shooting for fun or competition. If you hurry through the process, after a costly mistake, you can come and kick yourself.
This also means you can stretch the process out over time, in addition to having the time to fine-tune each pin. Fatigue soon becomes a factor of precision, but if you make changes to your sights, you may want to make sure that you are resting. To produce the best results, extending the process over many days is optimal.
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